Quick Update:  now in Kuresaarre, Estonia, about to leave for the tiny island of Ruhnu.  Ten days left to see the rest of Estonia before entering Russia.  The trip so far has gone exceedingly well, and I have now seen all the Baltic capitals, as well as my old friend Juhani Katainen in Helsinki, Finland.  Will try to do a real update this week.  Have covered 1000 miles/1600 km.

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